Annual postcard from Fink&Kotzian – 2021 release

I first met Christian Fink in Vienna in 2017 during the Best Sommelier of Europe. We visited the Egon Schiele pop- up exhibition at the Albertina Museum together with some other winemakers and sommeliers, then shared dinner and art issues. He was then sitted at the same table with Bruno, watching the finals the next day and he enjoyed my passage on scene. He then started sending us his wines year after year, like a post card one sends to a friend. This has always touched me, as his labels remind me something of the cultural moment we spent talking about the Vienna Secession and is prodigal artists. Footprint? Tree rings? Psychedelic experience? Christian would say both none and the three of them!
Christian Fink and his lady, Petra Kotzian started the adventure in the Weinviertel at the gates of Vienna with the 2013 Vintage. Their 9 ha vineyard is like a garden they try to work as close to nature as possible while valuing as much as they can some historic terroirs such as the Ried Hintern Dorf or the Ried Königsberg. Their range is quite impressive in terms of width, with a good dozen labels… vines are aging little by little and wines have improved year after year, new labels have also arrived.
Fink& Kotzian Des Bulles Naturalles 2021   It is the second edition I taste of its lovely bubbly that deliciously smells like strawberries and cream on leesy background with a blossomy hint evoking peony. It is soft, imprinted with delicate mousse and gentle freshness while satiny and fruity, bursting with cherries, red berries and floral elements with a refreshing herbal twist.

Berg &Meer Riesling 2021 Niederösterreich 13,5% abv. Exuberant nose of pineapple and white peach, sprinkled with citrus, such as yuzu, hints of lemongrass and verbena. Dry, with crystalline acidity lining a juicy and fleshy core filled with leesy density, the back palate holds on sapid phenolics. Zesty finish with savoury salinity, while bursting with citrus, pineapple, and verbena. 90

Berg &Meer++ Riesling 2021 Weinland 11,5% abv. Peachy, with honeyed floral veil and stony hints. The palate is off- dry, with racy, filigree- like acidity though ripe core that brings layers of peach, candied citrus, honey and Ricola sweets. Herbal, honey, and citrus come along with delicate phenolics. A light and elegant body, yet with concentrated finish and a zesty twist. 89+

Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner Ried Hintern Dorf 2021 12,5% abv. Reductive and stony, then bringing up apple and herbal notes, a touch of pear peel. Dry, dense, and packed with freshness despite moderately high acidity. The texture is leesy, spiced up with lots of white and green pepper, the back palate comes with a granny phenolic bite and a long stony, salivating aftertaste. Pure and precise. 90+

Grüner Veltliner 2021 Niederösterreich Ried Königsberg Roggendorf 13,5% abv. Peach and apple mingle with floral and some green elements. Dry, still slightly fizzy, with rounded and ripe acidity, yet filled with aromatic freshness coming from the peppery and herbal hints together with crunchy apple character. The texture is lean, while the body is enhanced by the leesy impact. The phenolic structure brings a sapid, grainy bite. Ripe, still fresh, almost balsamic on the finish with a herbal twist – sage, pomelo, and zests linger on the aftertaste. 91++

O.T. 2021 Niederösterreich 12,5% abv. White peach and white blossoms interlace with citrus and a hint of zest. Dry and vivid, with ultra citrusy acidity and lean, linear palate, it offers a light and zingy feeling. The finish is zesty, not phenolic, just bringing leesy saltiness and a precise sharp citrusy/ apple crunch bite. Saline, salivating, refreshing. 88+

O.T. Reserve 2021 Niederösterreich 13,5% abv. Creamy notes, with oak- derived vanilla and toast complementing ripe apple and pear. Dry but velvety palate and a high citrusy, racy acidity. The core is pulpy with oaky texture and phenolics, while generous and spicy. The finish is tight with oak- impacted phenolics, notes of vanilla, Burgundian toast, on peach, and apple background. 87

Pinot Gris 2021 Niederösterreich Ried Hintern Dorf 14,5% abv. Mirabelle plum and honey- scented notes intermingle with dill, vanilla and oaky creaminess, a touch of toast. Dry, with medium acidity, yet refreshing feeling and a full, fleshy core bringing generous alcohol and ripe phenolic grip. Tight finish with medium length, but aromatic notes of exotism and nectarine, pulpy plums, and spices. Full, still massive, and gastronomic. 88

Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Niederösterreich 13,5% abv. Grapefruit, gooseberry, and dill, with classic herbal notes of asparagus, and reductive stony, lees- derived background. Dry with assertive acidity and moderately full yet textured body, the palate brings layers of lees- impacted mouthfeel, imbued with citrus zests, grapefruit, and asparagus. No phenolics, simply some herbal bitterness that makes the finish feel tense and austere. 87/88

Roter Traminer 2021 Niederösterreich 2021 15% abv. Rose sherbet and lychee mingle with spices, like ginger powder. The palate is ripe, fleshy, and almost off- dry due to the souple and melting acidity with honeyed mid- palate, bursting with Turkish delight. Citron fruit – candied citrus, ginger, cinnamon and ripe phenolics give lots of personality to a full, rounded, long and intense wine with concentrated and aromatic aftertaste bursting with rose petals and ginger. 92

Pinot Blanc Königsberg 2021 Niederösterriech 14% abv. Stony, neutral, it opens with some pear and apple, on leesy, reductive background. Dry, its citrusy acidity makes it linear but not austere as the flesh comes and wraps it. The texture is leesy, lean and silky, with nice zesty phenolics, lots of apple and pear crunch, very malic and citrusy, rather long. 90

Rosé « ea Rosa pulchera est » 2021 Niederösterreich 2021 12,5% abv. Pale salmon. Nose is delicate. Few fruit, some grapefruit open on guava and pomegranate. Ripe and fleshy, slightly off- dry with juicy core with lovely phenolic bite, its grainy texture is imprinted with red currants, pomegranate, and spicy twist like pink pepper. 88