Compared to wine which pairs with food, saké draws out the flavour of the ingredients. Naturally rich in Umami it also mixes well with Umami rich dishes, which are known as enemies for most of the wines. Umami comforts our senses but unfortunately, once associated with wine it makes it feel less fruity, drier, more acid and more tannic in the case of reds, while even diminishing their body. Since Saké always has some amounts of sugar, 5 times lower acidity (as measured by the “san-do” in succinic equivalents) than wine and no tannins, with a richly textured body thanks to the generous alcohol, umami rich food will not disturb it too much, while pairing with the umami it contains. 

Saké contains a series of amino- acids such as: Alanine (sweetness), Arginine (bitterness), Glutamic and Aspartic acids (essential amino- acids related to savouriness, to umami). The amino- acids´content is measured by the “amino- san- do” and is five times higher than in wines. 

Koji enzymes break down the rice protein depending on the way of kojification: either Sohaze for a denser kojification and more umami / or Tsukihaze with more diffuse koji, suitable for Ginjo- styles. 

Saké goes well with a large range of foods such as seafood which contains umami via the Inosinic acid (oyster, tiger prawns). Succinic acid, the most important saké acid is also present in scallops for instant. Saké will never drive that fishy taste out of seafood, as it does not contain iron to combine with specific lipids. Saké ´s compounds also cover the Trimethylamine which is also responsible for the unpleasant fishy odour. 

Some vegetables also contain umami, like asparagus through its aspartic acid while mushrooms are naturally rich in proteins. 

Mould and yeasts from saké remind the mould of cheese while savoury cold cuts and cured ham find a good match with this umami rich and generous beverage.

This brilliant masterclass conducted by Raimonds Tomsons, ASI Best Sommelier of Europe and Africa 2017 was all about the diversity of Sakés and various ways of pairing them with food. The Japan Saké and Sochu Association offered a very consistent and relevant range of sakés for the topic. 

Here some of my tasting notes: 

1. Suehiro Ken – Daiginjo Suehiro Sake Brewery 

Yamadanishiki rice, 40%, SMV +3,5/ + 4,5 Total acidity 1-1,2 ABV: 15,9%

Ethereal, airy, blossomy, with peachy, melony esters. Some banana notes come along. Dry, with soft acidity, slightly warming, with a spicy twist, aromatic palate with banana flavours. Moderate umami, some bitterness and slightly kire finish, with purity and vibrancy.

2. Nito Yamadanishiki 55 Maruichi Jozo Co., Ldt

Aichi Prefecture, Yamadanishiki rice, 55%, SMV -1, Total acidity 2, ABV 16%

Slightly hazy, intense nose with peach, nectarine, melon. Off- dry, with silky texture and gentle acidity, a delicate palate with integrated alcohol, and slightly spicy touch on the finish, lightly sweetinsh finish, but quite savoury.

3. Denshin Yuki Ippongi Kubo Honten Co. Ldt. 

Fukui Prefecture, Gohyakumangoku rice, 55% Junmai Ginjo SMV +2 Total Acidity 1,5 ABV 15,5%

Resin, pine kernel, apple, some citrus peel. Palate is slightly dry, offering delicate texture with a high volatility and has a very nice crisp, moderate but fresh acidity, with savoury finish, a sapid saline touch, some zests too.

4. Taiten Shiragiku Omachi 55, Shiragiku Shuzo Shuzo Ldt. 

Okayama Prefecture, Omachi rice, 55%, SMV +3,5 Togal Acidity 1,5 ABV 16,5%

Earthy, showing rice, some apple, banana peel, a nutty expression with some spices. Gentle attack, soft and dryish with layers of mouthfeel, quite dense and textured. An umami- rich saké, with rather spicy, peppery finish, bringing some warmth and some citrus peel.

5. Sohomare Kimoto Tokubetsu Junmai Sohomare Sake Brewery co. Ltd. 

Tochigi Prefecture, Yamadanishiki rice, 60%, SMV +4/+5 Total acidity 1,8 ABV: 15%

Nose is discreet, offering some steamed rice, some dried herbal aromas, glints of pot- pourri. Juicy palate with fresh crisp, elevated perception of acidity for sake, with fresh, bitter almonds notes, silky texture, a spicy finish, bitter twist, some nice umami, dense and savoury.

6. Akashi – tai Tokubetsu Honjozo, Genshu Akashi Sake Brewery Co. Ltd.

Hyogo Prefecture, Gohyakumangoku rice, 60%, SMV: + 2 Acidity 2,1 ABV: 19%

Iody, displaying cereal, smoke, and oyster shell, with nuts, very mild, sweetish attack, warm, dense, and powerful, with concentrated and round acidity, with intense earthiness, cereal character, lactic, creamy, with a long and powerful finish showing generous touch and nuttiness, long, salty, iody.

7. Choryo Yoshinosugi no Taru sake Choryo Shuzo Co. Ltd.

Nara, table rice, 70%, Yoshino cedar taro of 72l for 2 weeks, SMV: 0, Total Acidity: 1,2 ABV: 15-16%

Balsamic, cedar wood, pine tree, with a resin character, nutty, also offing apple compote and rice crackers. Sweet, elevated acid structure, very fresh by its balsamic nature, very clean crisp, a digest palate with rice notes and resin, with crunchy pine kernel and a touch of almond. Long and aromatic finish. Lots of umami.

8. Kamoizumi Sachi 1997 Kamoizumi Shuzo Co. Ltd.

Hiroshima Prefecture, Hiroshima Hattan, Nakateshinsenbon rice 60%, Junmai Ginjo Koshu SMV+3, Total acidity: 1,6, ABV 18%

Fig, honey, wax, propolis, with lots of nuts, walnuts in honey, caramel. The palate is mid-sweet with low acidity but gets its acids from umami, very large and spicy, warm, layered, with nutty finish and a caramel and honey aftertaste.