I was truly honored to be entrusted by Sakeist to conduct a webinar on Nakano Shuzo, not only for the pleasure of directly interacting with their extraordinary Kuramoto Nakano-San, but also because this mission raised funds for Ukraine. We were happy to welcome Anna Pototska Best Sommelier of Ukraine 2017 who testified about the situation in her country and taught us about Ukraine’s wines and grape varieties. 

With Anna Akizuki being our master of ceremony and Julien Chameroy the brilliant translator, as usually. Here is my interview for Nakano- San together with my tasting notes.

JS Please explain us the name of your brand “Chiebijin”.

Nakano- San: Named after Chie, the name of the proprietary’s wife when the company was founded in 1874.

JS What is the local style of sake from the Kunisaki Peninsula?

Nakano- San: Thick, mellow, sweet taste. Soy sauce is sweet in the region, so our sake follows the same patter. 

JS Please tell us more about your family and your family business!

Nakano- San: I am the sixth generation. Our sake brewing is handled by local employees, and we have five members currently.

JS Have you learned brewing from your father, or do you consider having a different style?

Nakano- San: My father does not make sake. His mission was the management and sales. I returned home from the University and wholly taught myself how to brew sake.

JS Tell us more about this innovative concept of involving many young people in the brewing process!

Nakano- San: I am 42 years old and no longer a young man, but with members in their 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s years old we value teamwork in manufacturing.

JS What are the main features of your water? Is it soft? Is it rich in nutrients? 

Nakano- San: Our water from the well, with a PH7.2, coming from 200 meters underground, is medium-hard water that is as close to neutral as possible.

JS Do you cultivate Yamada- Nishiki or do you purchase from local sources?

Nakano- San: We are working with contracted local farmers to cultivate our products.

JS What is for you the difference between the Oita Yamada- Nishiki and the Hyogo Yamada – Nishiki?

Nakano- San: The grains are smaller than Hyogo’s Yamada- Nishiki but cope well with Nakano Brewery’s brewing water.

JS Do you use traditional brewing like Kimoto/Yamahai to obtain such elevated acidity for a sake? Is it due to a specific selection of koji?

Nakano- San: The acidity is produced by calculating sake quality based on the acidity derived from koji and the water absorption rate of rice washing.

JS What is the impact of classical music on the sake maturation?

Nakano- San: We mainly use classic music (especially Mozart) during fermentation and believe it cleans up the sake quality.

JS Is your father still involved in the brewery or just checks and gives his ideas?

Nakano- San: As already mentioned, he has never been involved in the brewing process when he was the president of the brewery, but now he is involved in koji making exclusively.

JS What is the fermentation temperature?

Nakano- San: The temperature is controlled at 10°C to 15°C.

JS Can you tell us more about the local cuisine?

Nakano- San: Oita Prefecture is a treasure house of the sea with horse mackerel and mackerel, Kunitachi is known for octopus and swordfish, and Kitsuki for oysters.

JS Do you use and aromatic yeast as your Junmai is very flavoured and exquisite for the category? 

Nakano- San: We use some, such as a blend of the following two 1401 (for the isoamyl acetate) and 1801 (for the Ethyl Caproate)

JS The colour might indicate that you might have a very soft or no charcoal filtration, is it the case?

Nakano- San: The filtration process is not active charcoal filtration. Only filter filtration (SF filtration) is used.

JS What is your favourite local pairing for your Chiebijin Junmai? Then I will give you my French pairing!

Nakano- San: Recommended for flavorful meat and broth dishes (dishes cooked with dashi).

JS: I would also recommend an umami- rich dish with a personality of its own: a surf and turf mingling slightly steamed scallops and breaded veal sweetbreads with Granny Smith julienne and corn salad. Otherwise, I would go for a Sea bream carpaccio, yoghurt dressing and sumac spice. Or try a double cream Chaource Cheese. 

JS Your Junmai Daiginjo is very delicate and has a temperate aroma character, is it due to the controlled temperate bottle storage? Esters are very mild, and the nose is very complex.

Nakano- San: It’s because it is bottled immediately after pressing to prevent oxidation and stored in a low-temperature refrigerator.

JS What is your favourite local pairing for your Junmai Daiginjo? I will then give you my French pairing!

Nakano- San: We recommend drinking it with local oysters. Preferably with raw oysters and in a glass of wine!

JS: What a coincidence, I would pair that with oysters in disguise – topped with cucumber granite, finger lemon and citrus Chantilly. 

Tasting notes 24.03.2022

• Chiebijin Junmai 2021 bottling

Pale lemon green colour, with silvery tinges. Pure, moderate nose, it displys fresh fruit such as apple, green pear, complemented by lactic notes and rice cream, herbal glints like fern, with a slightly grassy character and a fennel touch. Dry, smooth, with fairly elevated acidity for sake, providing fresh salivation, its alcohol is slightly generous, enhancing peppery notes. Umami density on the finish, some zests to refresh the warmth, fruit comes with layers of apple jelly and pear, hints of pepper, fennel and herbs. Mellow, its supple mouthfeel and long finish with a refreshing twist distinguish it among other Junmai.

• Chiebijin Junmai Daiginjo 2021 bottling

Of a pale silvery coulour, the nose is clean and mild, offering white blossoms, such as jasmin, green melon, fresh pear, some herbal notes. Off- dry, with mellow attack, its creamy textutre and silky mouthfeel intermingle with the rather warming alcohol, spicing up the palate. The fruit is delicate with pear, melon and some zests, complemented by a touch of Madagascar pepper on the long and generous finish, some liquorice, anissed too and refreshing minty feel. Its delicate parfumes and rather mild, temperate style distinguish it among other Junmai Daiginjo. 

Tasting notes 21.04.2022

• Chiebijin Junami – 2022 bottling

Silvery colour. Airy and delicate nose of green apples, aniseed, interlaced with rice crackers and lactic notes, like yougurt with pear. The palate is dry and silky, with a light off- dry touch, smooth texture and fresh acidity, with umami rich density and light bitter hints that recall bitter almonds. The alcohol is moderate with no warming feeling, the flavours are fresh recalling orchard fruits, entwinened with rice powder and rice pudding, the finish is dry, focused with aniseed freshness and herbal twist. Vibrant and gastronomic. 

• Chiebijin Junmai Daiginjo- 2022 bottling 

Greenish shades and silvery glints. Pure nose with notes of green melon, jasmin blossoms, honeysuckle, fresh apple. The palate is off- dry and smooth, with juicy, rather elevated acidity for a sake, offering a fresh feeling, while the alcohol is generous, bringing wheight and texture. Spicy, almost zesty, with a touch of white pepper, aniseed, fennel, and a citrus crunch. A classy Junmai Daiginjo, not too aromatic, but food- friendly and digest.