{"id":1110,"date":"2022-03-01T18:50:40","date_gmt":"2022-03-01T18:50:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/juliascavo.com\/omanian-wines-of-the-iconic-estate-alexandrion-group-presented-by-julia-scavo-dipwset-2-copy-copy-2\/"},"modified":"2022-09-01T14:29:00","modified_gmt":"2022-09-01T14:29:00","slug":"un-aperitiv-care-se-invita-la-masa-vinul-rose","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/juliascavo.com\/ro\/un-aperitiv-care-se-invita-la-masa-vinul-rose\/","title":{"rendered":"Un aperitiv care se invit\u0103 la mas\u0103… Vinul ros\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"

[vc_row css_animation=”” row_type=”row” use_row_as_full_screen_section=”no” type=”full_width” angled_section=”no” text_align=”left” background_image_as_pattern=”without_pattern”][vc_column][vc_column_text]<\/p>\n

Vinul ros\u00e9 nu are o defini\u021bie fix\u0103, ci reprezint\u0103 un \u00eentreg complex \u0219i divers. Este un vin care \u00ee\u0219i \u00eenmul\u021be\u0219te fa\u021betele \u00een func\u021bie de elaborarea sa, expresia terroir-ului s\u0103u, modurile de consum, sau pur si simplu moda, moftul, zeitgeistul …<\/p>\n

\u00cen ciuda a ceea ce s-ar putea crede, vinul ros\u00e9 este unul dintre cele mai dificil de produs, deoarece necesit\u0103 mult\u0103 tehnicitate. Pentru viticultorii preocupa\u021bi de cel mai mic detaliu, no\u021biunea de ros\u00e9 este stabilit\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 din vie: ce sol? ce expunere? ce altitudine? ce mod de t\u0103iere a viei? ce soiuri de struguri? care clone? ce tip de operatiuni in verde? Se evit\u0103 accidente de c\u0103ldur\u0103 extrem\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 stres hidric dac\u0103 se poate, iar boabele trebuie s\u0103 aib\u0103 o fermitate moderat\u0103, o pieli\u021b\u0103 destul de friabil\u0103 \u0219i digest\u0103, cu colora\u021bie omogen\u0103, c\u00e2t se poate de pu\u021bin pu\u021bin\u0103 astringent\u0103 \u0219i doar u\u015for acidulat\u0103, o pulp\u0103 suculent\u0103, fructat\u0103. Dup\u0103 cultura aproape matematic\u0103, elaborarea este \u00eenso\u021bit\u0103 de o mare precizie. Pentru a-i defini culoarea, structura, identitatea, fiecare secund\u0103 \u0219i fiecare gest conteaz\u0103, ceea ce necesit\u0103 o rigoare aproape militar\u0103.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Voi l\u0103sa oenologii s\u0103 vorbeasc\u0103 despre metodele de elaborare a ros\u00e9-ului (fie c\u0103 este vorba de s\u00e2ngerare, macera\u021bie pelicular\u0103 sau presare direct\u0103). Din punct de vedere tehnic, vinurile “de culoare deschis\u0103”, \u201eclairet\u201d -urile, tentele de tip \u201eOeil de perdrix\u201d apar s\u0103 fie anterioare vinurilor ro\u0219ii pe care le cunoa\u0219tem ast\u0103zi. Multe relat\u0103ri istorice (Pliniu, Columella etc.) vorbesc, de asemenea, despre o culoare intermediar\u0103 clasificat\u0103 ca vin \u00een sine.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Provence, cea mai veche regiune viticol\u0103 din Fran\u021ba, pare s\u0103 fie \u0219i cea care a v\u0103zut \u00eenceputul vinului ros\u00e9. Ast\u0103zi ea r\u0103m\u00e2ne \u00eenc\u0103 fidel\u0103 acestei culori, de\u0219i este un terroir afirmat \u015fi pentru ro\u0219ii \u0219i ofer\u0103 vinuri albe confiden\u021biale surprinz\u0103toare.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00cen loc s\u0103 vorbim despre “ros\u00e9”, s\u0103 vorbim despre “ros\u00e9- uri”, pentru c\u0103 to\u021bi ambasadorii acestei culori ofer\u0103 o varietate fascinant\u0103, numai dac\u0103 ne g\u00e2ndim la Provence. S\u0103 lu\u0103m cazul denumirii origine Bellet –\u00a0 <\/span>Ros\u00e9: un vin inimitabil, unde soiul de struguri Braquet ofer\u0103 o textur\u0103 moale \u0219i delicat\u0103, sus\u021binut\u0103 de o structur\u0103 care \u00eel calific\u0103 drept vin de gastronomie. Aromele sale sunt, de asemenea, surprinz\u0103toare, g\u0103sim adesea un fond pe care unii \u00eel calific\u0103 drept \u201emineral\u201d, aproape salin-iodat, \u015fi care se explic\u0103 prin tendin\u021ba de soi reduc\u0103tor mai mult dec\u00e2t un semn al terroir-ului s\u0103u inconfundabil\u00a0 <\/span>(“poudingue” de pietri\u015furi venite dinspre Alpi \u015fi conglomerate \u00een cimet calcaros si nisipos, care \u00eempodobe\u0219te dealul Nisa). Lemn dulce, note de anason, portocale ro\u015fii, o atingere floral\u0103, suntem \u00een Provence, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 fim acolo cu adev\u0103rat!\u00a0 <\/span>Culoarea sa pastelat\u0103, aproape somonat\u0103, contrasteaz\u0103 cu cele din C\u00f4tes de Provence mult mai clar\u0103 \u0219i str\u0103vezie.<\/p>\n

De la terroir la terroir (Fr\u00e9jus, La Londe, Pierrefeu, Sainte-Victoire, Notre Dame des Anges pentru a men\u021biona doar pe cele care beneficiaz\u0103 de o denumire geografic\u0103 de tip “cru”), vinurile C\u00f4tes de Provence Ros\u00e9 reprezint\u0103 o lume complet\u0103, un univers de stiluri. Uneori sunt de culoarea petalei de trandafir, eviden\u021biate prin fine\u021bea, dulcea\u021ba fructului, t\u0103iate parc\u0103 \u00een dantel\u0103 a\u015fa cum ne apare Ch\u00e2teau La Tour L’Eveque “P\u00e9tale de Rose” <\/i><\/span>de pe \u015fisturile din Pierrefeu, in valea interioar\u0103, alteori sus\u021binute, rotunde, cu o tent\u0103 condimentat\u0103, cum ar fi Domaine Gavoty “Clarendon” <\/i><\/span>pe calcarurile argiloase din Cabasse (de\u015fi nu foarte departe, la o arunc\u0103tur\u0103 de piatr\u0103, ceva si mai departe de mare). Unele sunt ample \u0219i \u00eenv\u0103luitoare precum cele ale lui Jerome Paquette pe riolitele si porfirele vulcanice din Fr\u00e9jus, cu tente pastel ce amintesc tablourile renascentiste din muzeul Fra Angelico din Floren\u021ba, altele arat\u0103 o anumit\u0103 tensiune, p\u0103str\u00e2nd \u00een acela\u0219i timp un stil m\u0103t\u0103sos – Ch\u00e2teau Barbanau “Et Cae Terra” <\/i><\/span>situat nu departe de Cassis, \u00een Roquefort- la B\u00e9doule, respir\u00e2nd direct briza marin\u0103 dar la \u00een\u0103l\u021bime. Cat despre cele din proasp\u0103ta zona promovat\u0103 la rang de \u201ecru\u201d- Notre Dame des Anges, ele ne imprima o senzatie de prospetime caracteristica acestei vai interioare, un culoar cu geologie complexa \u015fi amplitudini termice marcate intre zi si noapte. Ch\u00e2teau Demonp\u00e8re <\/i><\/span>apare ca un port drapel \u00een zona \u015fi marchez\u0103 prin stilul aerian, cu tente citrice de grapefruit si zesturi si caracter sapid, proasp\u0103t si final\u0103 pietroas\u0103.<\/p>\n

Prospe\u021bimea progreseaz\u0103 in mod pozitiv cu c\u00e2t ne apropiem de masivul calacros Sainte Victoire unde culoarele de ventila\u021bie si nop\u021bile r\u0103corase se combina cu depratarea fa\u021b\u0103 de Mediteran\u0103 \u015fi dau un spirit structurat prin aciditatea mai marcata.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bandolul, fieful regelui Mourvedre, este tipic combin\u00eend gra\u021bia unui vin ros\u00e9 cu o arhitectur\u0103 serioas\u0103, cu condimente, cu un caracter s\u0103lbatic, \u201emineral\u201d pietros si cu sapiditate savuroas\u0103. \u00cen Palette p\u0103trundem \u00een profunzimea ros\u00e9 -urilor cu o culoare sus\u021binut\u0103, dintr-o colec\u021bie de soiuri vechi si de mult uitate \u00een alte zone \u0219i obi\u0219nuite cu lemnul, unde sunt frecvent maturate ca marile vinuri ale lumii. Poten\u021bialul lor de \u00eenvechire lor este impresionant, urm\u00e2nd exemplul a ceea ce ne ofer\u0103 precursorul stilului – Ch\u00e2teau Simone.<\/i><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Alte denumiri provensale, de exemplu, Baux de Provence, dau ros\u00e9-uri sapide, vorbind perfect despre terroir-ului lor, cum ar fi ros\u00e9-ul propus de Domaine Hauvette, <\/i><\/span>care ne aminte\u0219te de c\u0103ldura pietrelor calcare din Baux-de-Provence<\/i><\/span>, mai aproape de Valea Rh\u00f4nului sud de c\u00e2t de Provence. Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> al lui Peter Fischer, Ch\u00e2teau Revelette, pe versantul nord al masivului preferat al lui C\u00e9zanne<\/i><\/span> inspir\u0103 ierburi aromate \u0219i fructe de p\u0103dure s\u0103lbatice, sus\u021binut de o structur\u0103 serioas\u0103 si sapid\u0103.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00cen alte \u021b\u0103ri, ros\u00e9-ul oscileaz\u0103 \u00eentre clar \u0219i colorat, de la sec la tandru pentru a merge p\u00e2n\u0103 la dulce, de la lini\u0219tit p\u00e2n\u0103 la spumant, la efervescen\u021ba elegant\u0103. Fran\u021ba \u0219i lumea vinului ne ofer\u0103 multe exemple, ins\u0103 de multe ori nu le privim ca pe vinuri ca atare, ci doar ca un aperitiv, un vin de teras\u0103 sau de pl\u0103cere simpl\u0103. Iat\u0103 \u00eens\u0103 cum putem valsa cu ros\u00e9-uri \u00een jurul gastronomiei:<\/p>\n

Pentru aperitiv, \u00eemi place s\u0103 \u00eenso\u021besc creve\u021bi marina\u021bi cu portocale \u0219i fenicul cu un pahar de C\u00f4tes de Provence Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> Ch\u00e2teau Barbeyrolles “P\u00e9tale de Rose”.<\/i><\/span> Dac\u0103 prefera\u021bi bulele fine topite \u00een pulpa \u0219i fructul intens de pe palatin, pute\u021bi gusta un Posecco Bottega Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> \u00een compania unui fulg gourmet de buratta, tartar de ro\u0219ii cherry \u0219i de c\u0103p\u0219uni, ulei de m\u0103sline \u0219i floare de cimbru. Am gustat de asemenea o versiune de tartar de ro\u015fii c\u0103rnoase, c\u0103p\u015fune \u015fi masline Kalamata cu cuburi de feta \u00een compania unui Mumm Grand Cordon Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> pentru a rima cu stilul sau fructat exprim\u00e2nd c\u0103p\u0219uni, zmeur\u0103, dar \u0219i un voal aerian floral. Palatin ghidat de fructe \u0219i prospe\u021bime, cu virtute gastronomic\u0103 \u0219i aciditate prosp\u0103t\u0103.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Pentru un debut de mas\u0103 cochet si surprinz\u0103tor, v\u0103 propun un tartar de carne de vit\u0103 \u0219i stridii la cu\u021bit cu un Bandol Domaine Tempier Ros\u00e9,<\/i><\/span> cu o atingere delicat\u0103, fructe gurmande \u0219i fundal care aminte\u0219te de iodul stridiei. Iar daca tartarul i\u015fi uit\u0103 sosul clasic si devine natural, cu pulpa de mango si nor de emulsie de wasabi, lasa-te tentat de caracterul generos, picant si structurat al unui vin ros\u00e9 din sudul Rh\u00f4nului. Personal, \u00eemi place foarte mult cuv\u00e9e -ul \u201eTendance Caladoc\u201d din soiul omonim ( deci in IGP \u015fi nu in AOC) al productorului de Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du- Pape, Olivier Mousset.<\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Cu un tronson de lup de mare parfumat cu anason, sos de coral de arici de mare, a\u0219 merge f\u0103r\u0103 ezitare pe un Bellet Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> de la Clos Saint Vincent<\/i><\/span>, cu textura sa m\u00e2ng\u00e2ietoare, voalul pietros-iodat \u0219i tonurile de anason care \u00eenso\u021besc un fruct proasp\u0103t, dar copt cu o pl\u0103cut\u0103 am\u0103real\u0103, nobil\u0103 si pozitiv\u0103, ca o senza\u021bie de zest de mandarine. O alt\u0103 sugestie pentru acest vin de gastronomie ar fi un foie gras \u00een stil \u201ea la royale\u201d, emulsie de castane cu lemn dulce, invit\u00e2nd astfel ros\u00e9- ul la mas\u0103 \u00een afara sezonului de var\u0103!<\/p>\n

S\u0103 continu\u0103m cu o prepeli\u021b\u0103 dezosat\u0103, cu\u00a0 <\/span>umplutur\u0103 fin\u0103 cu condimente masala \u0219i stafide, confiat\u0103 \u00eentr-o caserol\u0103 pe un pat de f\u00e2n afumat \u0219i legumele sale confiate – acord surprinz\u0103tor cu un Palette Ros\u00e9 al miticului Ch\u00e2teau Simone<\/i><\/span>. Parfumurile vinului urmeaz\u0103 not\u0103 de not\u0103 preparatul: afumat, condimentat, caracterul confiat, copt al fructului. Un vin minunat, mai ales dup\u0103 ceva ani \u00een butelie. Sau daca afec\u021biona\u021bi bulele, opta\u021bi pentru Champagne Mo\u00ebt&Chandon Grand Vintage Ros\u00e9 1990.\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/span><\/p>\n

Pentru un filet de miel un pic surprinz\u0103tor, cu rezonan\u021be japoneze: l\u0103cuit \u00een tigaie, trecut \u00een cuptor doar 5 minute la 80 \u00b0 C, cu odihn\u0103 \u015fi relaxare \u00eenc\u0103 5 minute la cald \u0219i t\u0103iat ca un sashimi, cu sos Ponzu. Acest fel de m\u00e2ncare m\u0103 \u00eembie s\u0103-l \u00eenso\u021beasc cu un vin rom\u00e2nesc din Dealu Mare Hyperion Exclusive Ros\u00e9 Feteasca Neagra<\/i><\/span> penru a aveau un fruct sincer amintind rodia, cirea\u015fa si o prospetime pl\u0103cuta cu o structur\u0103 elegant\u0103, gra\u021bioas\u0103, cu voal floral si tente picante de mirodenii.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Unele br\u00e2nzeturi, de exemplu Chaource, g\u0103sesc asocieri regionale excelente, cum ar fi Ros\u00e9 de Riceys,<\/i><\/span> spre exemplu cel al produc\u0103torului de Champagne Alexandre Bonnet<\/i><\/span>. Cu br\u00e2nzeturi care iubesc Burgundia (Brillat-Savarin, Charolais), un magnific Marsannay Ros\u00e9 “Fleur de Pinot” de Sylvain Pataille,<\/i><\/span> care ofer\u0103 olfactivul unui vin burgund alb, cremos dup\u0103 bunul plac. O descoperire rar\u0103…<\/p>\n

Pentru un desert racoritor, fr\u0103gu\u021be cu un sorbet de lapte de bivoli\u021b\u0103 – o delicates\u0103 pur\u0103- Bugey Cerdon de la Renardat Fache<\/i><\/span>, cu arome de fragi si rodie, efervescenta cremoasa si doar 7,5% alc. Sau o asociere de contarst: Rhein Extra Ros\u00e9<\/i><\/span> <\/i>Brut<\/i><\/span>, cu arome de fructe de p\u0103dure \u0219i bujor \u00een floare, cu o bul\u0103 tonic\u0103 \u0219i minuscul\u0103 si o tensiune apoape electric\u0103!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

S\u0103 juc\u0103m cartea exotic\u0103: un desert compus dintr-un biscuit genovez, acoperit cu un mousse de ananas, inima de jeleu de hibiscus confiat pentru un pairing inedit cu un Trochenbeerenauslese Rosenmuskateller<\/i> “New Wave” de la Alois Kracher<\/i><\/span>, din regiunea Neusiedlersee din Austria. Aceast\u0103 selec\u021bie de boabe botrytizate de Muscat ros\u00e9 afi\u0219eaz\u0103 mirosuri de fructe tropicale sub un voal fin fumuriu punctat cu note de cui\u0219oare. Palatinul s\u0103u combin\u0103 perfect dulcea\u021ba cu prospe\u021bimea, \u00eentr-un univers care este imediat confiat, dar digest. Pentru a merge si mai departe in descoperire putem alege o Busuioaca de Bohotin de la Crama Budureasca ori de la Crama Basilescu<\/i><\/span>, din regiunea Dealu Mare sau din Pietroasele. Rezultatul este un vin cu o culoare portocalie – pieli\u021ba de ceapa sau mai sus\u021binut\u0103, \u015fi olfactivul aromat ca un muscat, cu accente de flori de trandafir si busuioc.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

A\u0219 fi putut s\u0103 v\u0103 povestesc \u0219i despre ros\u00e9-urile tandre \u0219i demi- seci din Valea Loarei, cum ar fi Cabernet d’Anjou, sau rarele Clairet din Bordeaux precum cel de la Ch\u00e2teau Massereau<\/i><\/span>… Recent, vinul de Porto este disponibil \u0219i \u00een ros\u00e9, precursor fiind casa Croft cu un “Pink” gourmet \u0219i c\u0103rnos, pentru a se bea la ora aperitivului sau ca ingredient de cocktail… Cele c\u00e2teva r\u00e2nduri ale mele sunt doar un aperitiv pentru a explora lumea vinurilor ros\u00e9!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row css_animation=”” row_type=”row” use_row_as_full_screen_section=”no” type=”full_width” angled_section=”no” text_align=”left” background_image_as_pattern=”without_pattern”][vc_column width=”1\/6″][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”2\/3″][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”1112,1115,1118,1121,1124,1127,1130,1133,1136″ img_size=”full” direction_nav=”yes” control_nav=”yes” pause_on_hover=”yes”][\/vc_column][vc_column width=”1\/6″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vinul ros\u00e9 nu are o defini\u021bie fix\u0103, ci reprezint\u0103 un \u00eentreg complex \u0219i divers. Este un vin care \u00ee\u0219i \u00eenmul\u021be\u0219te fa\u021betele \u00een func\u021bie de elaborarea sa, expresia terroir-ului s\u0103u, modurile de consum, sau pur si simplu moda, moftul, zeitgeistul …<\/p>\n

\u00cen ciuda a ceea ce s-ar putea crede, vinul ros\u00e9 este unul dintre cele mai dificil de produs, deoarece necesit\u0103 mult\u0103 tehnicitate. Pentru viticultorii preocupa\u021bi de cel mai mic detaliu, no\u021biunea de ros\u00e9 este stabilit\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 din vie: ce sol? ce expunere? ce altitudine? ce mod de t\u0103iere a viei? ce soiuri de struguri? care clone? ce tip de operatiuni in verde? Se evit\u0103 accidente de c\u0103ldur\u0103 extrem\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 stres hidric dac\u0103 se poate, iar boabele trebuie s\u0103 aib\u0103 o fermitate moderat\u0103, o pieli\u021b\u0103 destul de friabil\u0103 \u0219i digest\u0103, cu colora\u021bie omogen\u0103, c\u00e2t se poate de pu\u021bin pu\u021bin\u0103 astringent\u0103 \u0219i doar u\u015for acidulat\u0103, o pulp\u0103 suculent\u0103, fructat\u0103. Dup\u0103 cultura aproape matematic\u0103, elaborarea este \u00eenso\u021bit\u0103 de o mare precizie. Pentru a-i defini culoarea, structura, identitatea, fiecare secund\u0103 \u0219i fiecare gest conteaz\u0103, ceea ce necesit\u0103 o rigoare aproape militar\u0103. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1124,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1110","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog"],"yoast_head":"\nUn aperitiv care se invit\u0103 la mas\u0103... Vinul ros\u00e9 - Julia Scavo<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/juliascavo.com\/ro\/un-aperitiv-care-se-invita-la-masa-vinul-rose\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Un aperitiv care se invit\u0103 la mas\u0103... Vinul ros\u00e9 - Julia Scavo\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vinul ros\u00e9 nu are o defini\u021bie fix\u0103, ci reprezint\u0103 un \u00eentreg complex \u0219i divers. Este un vin care \u00ee\u0219i \u00eenmul\u021be\u0219te fa\u021betele \u00een func\u021bie de elaborarea sa, expresia terroir-ului s\u0103u, modurile de consum, sau pur si simplu moda, moftul, zeitgeistul ... \u00cen ciuda a ceea ce s-ar putea crede, vinul ros\u00e9 este unul dintre cele mai dificil de produs, deoarece necesit\u0103 mult\u0103 tehnicitate. Pentru viticultorii preocupa\u021bi de cel mai mic detaliu, no\u021biunea de ros\u00e9 este stabilit\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 din vie: ce sol? ce expunere? ce altitudine? ce mod de t\u0103iere a viei? ce soiuri de struguri? care clone? ce tip de operatiuni in verde? Se evit\u0103 accidente de c\u0103ldur\u0103 extrem\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 stres hidric dac\u0103 se poate, iar boabele trebuie s\u0103 aib\u0103 o fermitate moderat\u0103, o pieli\u021b\u0103 destul de friabil\u0103 \u0219i digest\u0103, cu colora\u021bie omogen\u0103, c\u00e2t se poate de pu\u021bin pu\u021bin\u0103 astringent\u0103 \u0219i doar u\u015for acidulat\u0103, o pulp\u0103 suculent\u0103, fructat\u0103. Dup\u0103 cultura aproape matematic\u0103, elaborarea este \u00eenso\u021bit\u0103 de o mare precizie. 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